Current research areas and projects overview
Textile recycling and reuse for circular economy
TEAM is currently developing biobased textile materials and innovative technologies for recycling and reuse of post-consumer and post-industrial waste textile materials to support textile sectors transition towards circularity.
Research project (ENZBIOTEX) received research funding from Biotechnology and Biological Sciences Research Council (BBSRC) (Grant Ref: BB/X011623/1) for developing novel approaches of enzyme-based biotechnology to achieve textiles recovery and reuse for circularity.
Laser enhanced biotechnology for Textile design and patterning (LEBIOTEX)
LEBIOTEX was a collaborative research project between 51Âþ» and Loughborough University to to explore new technologies for textiles and boosting sustainability of the industry. The project was led by Professor Jinsong Shen (51Âþ») and Dr Faith Kane (now at Massey University, NZ) with consultation from Professor John Tyrer (Loughborough University, UK) and Dr Edward Smith (51Âþ», UK), and research work undertaken by Dr Laura Morgan (now at University of the West of England) and Dr Chetna Prajapati (now at Loughborough University). The project was funded by the Arts and Humanities Research Council (AH/J002666/1) and was supported by industrial project partners Camira Fabrics, Speedo, and Teresa Green Design.
The project received subsequent follow-on funding for ‘Industrial Exploitation of Laser-Dyeing Processes for Apparel and Furnishing Textiles Markets’, also from (AH/P0149251), and continues through various research impact and commercialisation activities.
Natural bast fibres (Flax, hemp and nettle fibres) for sustainable textile materials
Flax, hemp and nettles are all bast fibres which are harvested from the stems of plants. These fibres are a sustainable choice for textiles as their cultivation requires little to no irrigation and no chemical pesticides, and these plants all capture carbon from the atmosphere while growing.
TEAM have developed an optimised mechanical process to produce clean and well separated fibres from the woody core of the stem. After they are further cottonised into individual fibres, these fibres are very soft and can be blended with cotton for spinning into yarns. Laboratory trials led to the development and establishment of a commercial scale decortication system and cottonisation process for flax, hemp and nettle fibre.
A significant benefit for using bast fibres in textiles is demonstrated from the wool/hemp blended upholstery fabrics, as these have an intrinsic flame-retardant property without the requirement of flame-retardant chemical finishing.
3D print for textile surface design
The current research is to developing 3D printing technology on textile materials to create textile surface design with specific functionality. The quality and the performance of 3D printing on textile fabrics based on FDM (Fused Deposition Modelling) were investigated in term of dimensional stability and sufficient attachment of the printed patterns on the fabrics. The current work demonstrated the ability to create different design patters in 3D on the fabrics. High quality of 3D patterns with precise and detail design can be printed on textile fabrics in strong attachment durable to wash.
Electroforming for metallised embellishment on textiles
Research of electroforming technology for textile surface metallised embellishment led to unique textile surface design effects. An interdisciplinary approach has been taken using knowledge from electrochemistry, electronic conductive circuit technology and computer-controlled machinery to advance aesthetic metallic textile design. This work was undertaken by Dr Jo Horton (now at the National Maritime Museum, London).
Sol-gel technology for textile multifunctionality
The application of sol-gel based hybrid polymers onto textile fabric can modify the surface of the fabric to give specific properties or combine functionalities. The sol-gel hybrid-based polymers were synthesised and applied to wool to impart specific functional or multifunctional properties. Properties imparted have included abrasion resistance, dimensional stability, antibacterial and hydrophobicity for water repellence, extending and improving on the natural properties of these fibres.
Biotechnology for textile coloration and patterning
The current research is developing a sustainable enzyme-catalysed in-situ coloration process for textiles without the use of synthetic dyestuffs and chemical auxiliaries, resulting in the benefit of energy saving as well as the reduction of waste effluents. In addition, enzymatic dyeing process offers opportunities for multiple colours and shading to be achieved through the alteration of processing conditions.
Machine washable wool
The recent development of textile biotechnology contributes to an understanding of the use of enzyme protease for wool surface modification and the innovative technology of enzyme modification for specific finishing process to achieve machine washable wool with the benefits of energy saving, reduction of chemical consumption and prevention of fibre damage.
Currently TEAM received the research funding for Development of enzyme-based coloration and coating for sustainable machine washable wool to support the wool industry transition to a circular system, from The Biomass Biorefinery Network (BBNet) (POC03-Jul21-Shen-09).
Performance textiles
We work closely with industry on product development and innovation. We have worked on a number of regionally, nationally and internationally funded projects to support the development of new products and processes for the textile industry. Work has included product performance assessment and material, product and finishing design and innovation.
Example projects have included
- In-depth fibre analysis for selection, properties and performance assessment
- Investigating anti-odour/ anti-microbial properties of sportswear
- Product comparison of thermal properties of base layers
- Launderability of lingerie for appearance retention and longevity
- Reflective yarn assessment for performance and visibility
Current projects focus on wearable technology, performance apparel, new market exploration, material innovation and sustainable textiles.
Knowledge exchange
Our researchers provide consultancy and knowledge exchange for national and international brands, industry partners, and third sector stakeholders, in support of the transition to sustainable fashion and textiles futures. Expertise and projects include support for developing circular design approaches, garment longevity and durability, and sustainable product and process innovation.
Historically and currently we have supported the textile industry both on a local regional, national and international basis to embed textile knowledge whether this be to embed new processes and new materials for product development or to identify, develop and realise into production new products into new sectors across the textile and associated supply chains.
The diverse nature of our expertise includes past projects
- Development of technical design for their body armour
- Technical properties of woven fabrics for technical applications including the automotive industry
- Processes, materials and product development of composites for industrial applications
- Medical textile material investigations